Carnevale Storico del Piceno

Tradizioni secolari tra atmosfere magiche, colori e trionfo del cibo “grasso” in cui la fiamma del passato non si è mai spenta

Il Carnevale Storico del Piceno è uno degli eventi più peculiari e folcloristici della regione Marche e d’Italia: un tripudio di colori, maschere, cibo caratteristico, veglioni e musica che coinvolge il capoluogo Ascoli Piceno ed i paesi di Castignano, Offida e Pozza – Umito.

Le secolari tradizioni carnascialesche, che si aprono ogni anno il 17 gennaio, giorno in cui si festeggia Sant’Antonio Abate, e raggiungono l’apice il giorno del Martedì Grasso, affondano le radici nei Saturnali di epoca augustea dell’antica Roma per poi evolversi nelle festività attuali passando per il medioevo e la Roma Papalina, senza mai perdere di importanza  ma anzi sviluppando in ognuna delle quattro località festeggiamenti caratteristici a seconda delle differenti influenze storico-culturali che andremo poi a scoprire.

Ogni paese facente parte del Carnevale Storico del Piceno ha dunque le proprie tradizioni da onorare e non manca certo un pizzico di campanilismo, ma il fil rouge che lega i quattro carnevali è lo stesso: l’orgoglio e la volontà di portare avanti cerimonie secolari, allietate da bagordi, nelle quali per tutto il periodo dei festeggiamenti regnano il rovesciamento temporaneo dell’ordine naturale delle cose, il sottosopra, con maschere, euforia, vino e soprattutto la celebrazione del cibo “grasso e fritto”.

Castagnole

½ kg di farina 00
50 gr di olio
3 uova
100 gr di zucchero
Mistrà q.b.
Maraschino q.b.
16 gr di lievito

Impastare il tutto e far amalgamare fino ad ottenere un composto uniforme, modellare porzioni di impasto per formare le palline e friggere in olio bollente.

Oggi probabilmente non si tiene più alla religiosità come un tempo, ma non dimentichiamo che da sempre qualsiasi festività è andata di pari passo con la religione ed infatti il termine carnevale deriva dal latino carnem levare, ovvero eliminare la carne, poiché indicava il banchetto che si teneva il Martedì Grasso, apice dei festeggiamenti, subito prima dei 40 giorni di Quaresima, periodo di astinenza e digiuno.

E proprio da questa usanza religiosa dell’eliminare la carne nel lasso di tempo pre pasquale, nascono le grasse, unte e dorate ricette che caratterizzano la cucina del periodo. Difatti fin dal Seicento sono attestate ricette a base di fritto, non inteso come quello contemporaneo, con olio, ma fritto a base di strutto, ed anzi alcuni scritti romani parlavano già di dolci tutt’ora in voga.

Sfrappe

½ kg di farina 00
150 gr di zucchero
2 uova
Mistrà q.b.
Vino bianco q.b.
8 gr di lievito

Impastare il tutto e far amalgamare fino ad ottenere un composto uniforme, tirare una sfoglia sottile, modellare a fiocchi e friggere in olio bollente.

Ma perché questa celebrazione del grasso e fritto?

Carnevale solitamente cadeva, e cade tutt’ora, in febbraio o i primi di marzo, mesi freddi e a ridosso del periodo in cui le famiglie erano solite uccidere il maiale, il che porta all’usanza di utilizzare il lardo fresco per preparare dolci e fritture. Un tempo grasso e fritto erano sinonimo di abbondanza e quindi di festa: in questo caso festa di Carnevale, che trovava il suo apice nei giorni compresi tra il giovedì ed il martedì grasso, giorni precedenti al Mercoledì delle Ceneri. Il Carnevale dunque fungeva da spartiacque tra il tempo dell’abbondanza, dei bagordi, ed il tempo del “magro” legato alla penitenza spirituale e fisica della Quaresima, in preparazione alla Pasqua, quando si tornava a mangiare normalmente.

Ravioli

½ kg di farina 00
1 uovo
1 cucchiaino d’olio
6 gr di lievito
Liquore a piacere
1 bicchierino di vino bianco
½ kg di crema pasticcera

Impastare il tutto e far amalgamare fino ad ottenere un composto uniforme, stendere l’impasto sottile, mettere crema, coprire con un altro strato sottile di impasto, sigillare, tagliare con l’apposita rotella taglia pasta e friggere in olio bollente.

Le castagnole, uno dei simboli delle festività carnascialesche, che nelle Marche sono addirittura divenute protagoniste di un proverbio:

“Finito Carnevale finito amore
Finito il far la pacchia da signore
Finito il setacciar farina in fiore
Finito il setacciar farina in fiore
Finito il mangiar castagnole”

Le sfrappe, i classici “fiocchi” tipici della cucina marchigiana, una ricetta antichissima risalente addirittura all’antica Roma, quando durante i Saturnali venivano distribuite alla folla ed erano chiamate frictilia, arrivate fino ai nostri giorni, la ricetta resta sempre la stessa gustosissima ed ovviamente… da friggere!

I ravioli di crema, altra storica ricetta carnevalesca immancabile perché senza non sarebbe festa.

La festa continua…

Foto e ricette fornite da: Panificio Vannicola

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